Search This Blog
Saturday, November 29, 2008
Letter from Tokyo
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
It's been a year since I took this job at BHCHP and my extended family continued to either not understand what I do, or not really like it much. But yesterday as I munched on leftovers with my mother she reported that some of them had read this Globe article a few weeks ago and they are all very happy and excited about it. Which made me very happy.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A co worker and I are in a heated ongoing discussion about whether or not Americans work too hard. She was born in France. What do you think? As always, comment, message or email
Friday, November 28, 2008
Thursday, November 27, 2008
A Bloody Thanksgiving
As the standoff continues I found this article on CNN about the effect of social media (mostly Twitter), and how it was used as the terror unfolded. At first, as one would expect, Twitter updates helped to mobilize volunteers and resources to the hotels. But then it became a security breech. People began urging others to stop tweeting because the terrorists were allegedly also using the site to preempt government reactions.
I'm not sure what the whole thing means for the present situation or for the future. But something I found fascinating in a less socially conscious and more writer-conscious way was that this same article mentioned that captives in the hotel were blogging about their situation as they lived it. Which reminded me of a news story from the year 2000 which you may have heard of, which was about the discovery of a message that a dying man in a submarine penned to his wife: I Am Writing Blindly. We read the article about this captain and his message in my Junior Year AP writing class and discussed the "need" to write. Is it a need to create? or a need to communicate? Is it narcissism or the constant search for connection and confirmation? Is it documentation so that we can feel we've left some proof of ourselves? Or to help those after us learn from our lives? Or is it everything?
----------------------------------------------------------------
On a bit of a lighter note: as we sat down to Thanksgiving dinner today one of the nurses quipped, "now everyone chew very carefully and then swallow slowly because I'm on lunch." The homeless patients around us chuckled appreciatively. We don't usually eat with them but something about this holiday really makes you want to get together. It was just like eating with any other family. We joked and laughed. We shared food. We loosened our belts and laughed some more. Some homeless folks who are not currently here getting medical treatment showed up just to visit friends or family. Friends were reunited and it was really amazing to watch. Afterwards staff and patients alike rested all together in the rec room watching football while others played checkers or cards in the Atrium. It was a relaxing, beautiful day. And although it's not an easy day for many, "I hate the holidays," admitted one man, "how can I not?" it seems like everyone here made the absolute best of it. And that was an awesome blessing.
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
On Needles
I am completely in favor of safe needle disposal and syringe exchange programs. I have never in my life met a drug user who stopped because she couldn't find clean needles, nor have I met someone who started abusing IV drugs because a needle exchange program made it easier.
I have however met many very sick people who have contracted illness and even died as a result of sharing contaminated needles. I have also known people who have gotten stuck with a needle improperly disposed of. Although the highest risk occupation for this is clearly medical workers it could happen to a garbage collector, or a janitor in any public area like a T stop or a McDonald's. Or even you or me if we didn't look or think and pushed down the paper towels in a public restroom down, or if we didn't watch our step in a park or on the beach.
Most programs involve participants filling out a registration form. This helps clinicians who work within the program to track their clients. This helps the Department of Public Health to get information about the incidences of drug use, disease and co-morbidities in a population that would otherwise never step into a doctor's office. These programs, where they are instated, also give clients access to things like treatment programs, counseling, and confidential HIV and Hepatitis testing. All of which they do not have otherwise. Why? Because none of these people became drug users because they are well adjusted people who easily form good working relationships. They are paranoid and mentally ill in many cases, and engaged in illegal activity in EVERY case which makes them hard pressed to even go to the ER when they are hit by cars never mind call up and make yearly appointments with the doctors you or I go see.
This is all a part of a philosophy we call "Harm Reduction." Because yes, yes that lady is using heroin, but now she is using heroin and has a doctor she trusts and he got her onto birth control pills so she doesn't have a heroin baby. And yes, that guy is on heroin, but now he is also seeking a treatment program. We save people from contracting the AIDS virus and from passing it on. We offer other options.
Until we can stop treating people with mental illness and addiction as if they are sub human we will never solve the problems which plague our entire planet, our entire humanity. It is not going to condone any drug use any more than the existence of narcan condones it.
Monday, November 24, 2008
And then there was no saying no
But when I found this job at BHCHP everything changed. I began really embracing the field of nursing. The type of work I do fits perfectly. I am always happy to go to work. Not always happy to be awake on Saturday mornings, but never ever upset about where I have to be. (Of course I was always happy to go to Thacher as well.) But I began to really transition from nursing student to nurse in this job.
For that I can only thank the amazing nurses on staff who have taught me through example and anecdote what it means to really live the life of a nurse. A new part of my identity developed, a part I never expected.
I have also stayed part time at Thacher, mostly for seasonal projects. For example, directing the Adolescent Program's production of A Midsummer Night's Dream. In the evenings I work on my own art and performances. And I feel like I have balanced out everything really well for myself.
I was recently offered a job at Thacher that would be part time nurse and part time drama teacher. And it shook up my entire world for about a week. After some prayer and some lengthy conversations with family and friends I decided to turn down the teaching job. It broke my heart, but felt right for right now. I had to admit that my needs have changed in a year, but also make peace with the idea that I can change my mind later and nothing is forever.
Plus... I have agreed to be their school nurse on the days I am already there directing. I smell a new adventure!
Friday, November 21, 2008
I needed to finish the record, your honor.
After some more adventuring and exploring our last day in the city Casey took a nap and the rest of us dressed up as fancy as we could and had dinner at this street cart we had been planning to eat at the entire week. It was in honor of John's birthday. We all sat on little stools and ate different flavors of ramen with seaweed and talked about baseball in broken Japanese and English. It was the perfect ending to our trip and later we found out that Sunday was actually John's birthday.
All of this is here with me.
The last Saturday we spent in Tokyo we went shopping. We believed this day to be John's birthday. It wasn't but we believed that it was and so we acted accordingly. Meaning, of course that we ate sushi four times that day. At different places. And drank. No matter what. Actually, I only went twice because then Steph and I got into a cab and gave the driver the address of the church I wanted to go to. Yes, even in Japan I was able to find a Catholic mass in English! Meanwhile the guys and Casey explored more of the city's sushi and sake population.
Catholic Mass outside of the the Northeastern part of the US is very different. I hadn't been expecting the sermon to be so conservative. It was hard to sit through, and made me question a lot of my faith. It made me wonder if I am really Catholic anymore or if I shouldn't really take those steps towards a Christian religion that is more in line with my beliefs. Those of you who know me best will say, "same old story, Misch." And the age old arguments I have against leaving are all the same. Steph actually walked out during the sermon, it was that bad. Afterwards I found solace in a long talk with John about organized religion versus Faith.
And although it was uncomfortable I am glad I went because in a week so full of moving and acting, I had done little in the way of meditating or praying and I needed the discipline of a full hour just for that.
When we all joined up again we traveled to Roppongi. Now, Gavin, our Australian friend whom we met on Friday had told us we had to go to Roppongi Hills. He showed us amazing photos he took from there of the whole city. Naively, I led the rest of my friends to busiest night club district of Tokyo. A place where Dave instructed us firmly to not talk to any men outside doorways and above all to NOT GET INTO ANY ELEVATORS. This was because all of the establishments on the first floor were legitimate, but just one look at any sign post could tell that decadent sketchy places dominated every other floor.
Nevertheless we imagined that Roppongi Hill must be a magical sacred mountain somewhere tucked behind the buildings and lights where we would meet some monks and sip on green tea and play tag with monkeys.
So we sent Casey to talk to one of the men in a doorway with whom one should never speak lest one find oneself on an elevator. She returned unharmed and laughing told us she would lead us to the Hill. We followed her across a busy street, around many corners, through some oncoming traffic, and ended up at a huge building with the words Roppongi Hill on it.
Yep. It's a skyscraper with an observation deck 52 floors up. Unfortunately the outdoor sky deck was closed so we all paid $15 to go to the top floor and look around. It was well worth it and we took some really great photos.
In our usual fashion we got lost on the way home, bought some sake in the Family Mart and had an epic pillow fight. The photos from which will never see the light of day. What happens in Sunshine City stays in Sunshine City.
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
At work... so how am I on a computer?
"Misch, where's Marie?"
"Misch, my patient was supposed to have a procedure done at 7am can we get her there late? Wait - Misch??"
I am at work right now. You may be wondering why I have time to blog at work at 9:25 in the morning. I am "extra" on the schedule today. I volunteered to sit at the main desk for a while since our unit secretary is out. I thought it would just be phone calls but I am also responsible for helping to get people to appointments, managing the transportation list, handing out paperwork, and a slew of other things and I don't even know what they are so they are not getting done.
"Fourth floor, Misch speaking. He's not on my list.... Well I didn't write the list.... Yes, I can get him there... The case manager is supposed to do that... Well, that's why I said I'd get him there."
(static) "Come in, Gus.. (static) Gus, come in this is base four to Gus. (static) Gus I have an add-on going to 38 Chestnut Street. Are you still here with the van?"
I think this whole morning is a lesson from God. Every different role at a medical facility is unique and necessary. It comes with stresses and joys. But sometimes we forget to even imagine ourselves in someone else's shoes. Today I am thrust into a world of ringing phones, impatient patients, demanding insurance representatives and frustrated doctors and I kind of understand why "Mary," gets so crazed sometimes.
"What time does the podiatry clinic open?" (I have no idea.)
"Does Michael John's medicare cover more than 50% of his stay here?" (I can call benefits?)
"Can you find Dr. Z?" (Who is that???)
Luckily, the medical secretary has been helping me with things I didn't even know I had to do. Like copying certain records based on... something. I don't know. A list somewhere, maybe the lunar cycle. And the unit secretary form downstairs has been picking up my unintended slack left and right. We really are a team here. It's all kinds of eye opening and awesome to see it from this angle, but I can't wait to get back to where I am the most useful as I am.
----
"Hi, are you covering the desk? .. Well, it's me, I'm coming in to relieve you. I'll be right up."
BEST PHONE CALL OF THE MORNING!
Friday, November 14, 2008
But, Miche, what is a Yakatabune?
The photos from this night tell the story best. I have many anecdotes to tell you that begin, "so there I was on the yakatabune.." All the tables had a cooking surface in the center. And we were given raw ingredients, and we cooked manjaki and okonomiyaki. And other things I can't pronounce or spell. Everything was delicious.
Some highlights:
"The Foreigner," and Aya had another drinking contest. Final score: 5 to 5
Oh, and it's all you can eat and drink. So we ate and drank A LOT. Except Steph doesn't drink so I had to drink for her.
The Japanese have a small Statue of Liberty, which we could see from the boat.
Another boat pulled up to ours and I am pretty sure someone sold a beer to a fisherman out the window.
Jun gave me a workbook to further my studies in Hiragana. It has step by step instructions, including stroke order which he was trying to teach me at Panda the night before. I am so excited, and even started to work on my lessons on the boat until the food came and things got too crazy!
Squatting to use Japanese toilets is EVEN HARDER while drinking and on a boat that is roughly the size of Codzilla and traveling at about the same speed.
After we were back on land our group took the train back towards the heart of the city, but stopped to do some traditional style karaoke.
Watch out, Asgard, Casey and I have come up with some killer duets that we've test driven in Tokyo.
The most fun was hearing our friends sing Japanese ballads and cartoon theme songs. Then Dave sang "Johnny B Good." We danced and they danced with us, and cars went by outside and it felt like a deleted scene from Ferris Bueller's Day Off. The most touching thing was when the entire room, at Steph's brilliant recommendation, sang "That's What Friends Are For." The video of us all, Impro Japan and Improv Boston, sitting around a room overlooking the city, arm in arm singing about ever lasting friendship still makes my heart tug at my chest.
Our hosts then presented us with gifts, trinkets for our cell phones. This was the last time we'd see them on this trip, as they were leaving for a retreat the next day. Tearful goodbyes were exchanged, along with promises to visit soon in America.
The Americans had a typical walk back to the hotel, all songs and laughing. And then drank sake in our matching robes and had a pillow fight. You know, normal stuff.
On This Day Last Week in Tokyo
In the morning we slept a little bit too late. Dave needed to do some unexpected work, so Steph, Casey, John and I set forth on a journey to Ueno. We headed straight from the train station to Ueno Park, where we immediately got drawn to a set of stairs that led up to Kiyomizu Kannon-Do, a temple which was almost secluded fro the rest of the park. I got some gorgeous video of the area outside the temple, including a fountain where people blessed themselves with water from a dragon's mouth.
Outside the temple we met a man from Australia named Gavin. We began a great discussion about The Venus Project. We traveled with him for the better part of the rest of our day. He didn't know why anyone would want to visit Australia, but we all told him we're going to visit him.
We also met an elderly Japanese man named "Hidah Ka." Hidahka-san told us that he was very worried about th youth of Japan. I could write an entire entry on our conversation alone. He mainly said that Japan never recovered after World War II. The world thinks of the Japanese as being quaint, quiet and gentle now, but they've over done it and now they are isolated. He says that because of their reputation, they can't compete on an international level in anything from sport to art to acting. He says because Japan is so isolated the youth of Japan are depressed. So many teenagers kill themselves every year, he watches the desperation kill them. He says when he was young he was encouraged, as were all boys, to marry a foreigner and bring them back to Japan. But it wasn't enough. He said that we needed to reach out to the youth of Japan and open up their world. When we were left speechless, he took the opportunity to share some culture with us. He also told us the temple we were at was nothing compared to the shrine down the road, and he pointed us that way before we parted.
He was right. We found ourselves at a Toshugo shrine. This is any shrine dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu.
It was a gorgeous place to walk around. I have many photos from that day. The path leading up to the shrine was lined with trees and statues and places to hang blessings an prayers written on wood. It was also the home of The Flames of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. This is the story of how the flames were preserved and joined into one flame. I stood and stared at the flame for a long time and felt like the daughter of a war criminal. It was a very hard thing to see and think about.
The rest of the park was just a beautiful respite from the city. There was a large pond with koi and ducks, and cats just wandering around happily not bothering anyone. Steph became personal friends with every cat. Every single one. There were duck boats, which we delighted in, being from Boston. And turtles... there were turtles everywhere too.
Once we walked away from that we passed through many trees and then found ourselves near the entrance to the zoo where there is also a small amusement park. We found a restaurant that served soba, and ate there. This time I did NOT spit any food out. Despite John's best efforts.
It got late and we had reservations on a traditional Japanese party boat for later on, so we decided to head to the train. We rode to Yurakucho ("no, YOU are") station and then walked to Shinagawa Station to meet Dave, Ken and the rest of our friends from Impro Japan.
The walk from Yurakucho to Shinagawa was beautiful. The weather was just perfect, we walked over a bridge with breathtaking views of the city as the sun set and the moon rose. We moved through quiet traditional neighborhoods tucked in the midsts of sky scraper views with playgrounds and laughing children home from school. We only lost our way twice, and thanks to Casey's magic and John's spacial relationship skills the four of us found our destination easily. Once there, we stopped to nap on a lawn near the station. We may have looked homeless, but we were so happy. Then it was on to a quick cup of coffee at Chat Noir cafe before boarding the Yakatabune.
My world, it's so small I can touch every corner and so large there's no ceiling.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I saw this note on my fridge this morning. It was written on a meter reading receipt, with two carbons attached:
Hello Michelle and Liz. It's been a very long time. Kinda weird that I'm your oil guy. Whatsup? Come check out my band if you can next Friday Nov. 21, at the Cask n' Flagon. Our band's called Manakin Cicada. Check out our myspace.
- Jon the sixie.
Seriously, folks. Jon was a "sixie," or seventh grader at Boston Latin School. We kind of adopted him because we all took the 35 bus. You know, the reverse of what happened to us when we were sixies. (We used to get spit on and lit on fire). Now he's my oil guy.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My Mom came over today to look at photos from my trip and hear stories. She also brought a huge bag full of my favorite foods like cheesecake muffins and pasta. " I figured you hadn't had time to shop or cook yet." I told my Mom she's the only reason I didn't stay in Tokyo.
Wednesday, November 12, 2008
This is the Real World Paging You Now
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am feeling a bit over committed right now, but all of my projects are good ones. I've decided to limit myself to 3 projects (in addition to my regular commitments like work and Friday Night Face Off), until after January. Here is the breakdown of what I am promising:
1. The Boundaries Awareness Video for BHCHP. Goal by end of January is to have finished most of the filming and begin editing in Feb.
2. Three Hole Punch had our first planning meeting for our Wednesday night Hump Show in January at Improv Boston. If we get all the things we talked about tonight you are in for a very cool and interactive theater experience. Goal is to have shot all sketches by early December. Show will run to the end of January.
3. I am directing A Midsummer Night's Dream at Thacher Montessori. The students are in the adolescent program which is ages 12-14. Goal is to have show go up at the end of January/ beginning of February, definitely before V-Day. The students just finished reading the play and I am busy editing the script into something more manageable for the time table we have.
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
Missing Posts
When I got home last night Pim picked me up from the airport and the first thing we did was head to Doyle's in J.P for a giant cheeseburger. I "took a moment" outside the irish pub to breathe in the New England fall air and to examine the leaves on the American Maple trees.
After Pim dropped me off at my apartment I wandered around it, looking at my life like an outsider. Perhaps I dreamed the whole thing up. I fell asleep with a candle burning and awoke in total darkness unsure of the day or time until I saw the candle had only been burning for less than an hour.
Today I spent my time answering messages, voice mails and emails. I'm on my way to work.
I can hardly believe any of the last week happened, and yet I feel like a very changed person. I will be writing a lot tonight to make up for the missing days before any more details fade. then I will post the photos.
But the best thing to do if you want to know what happened is to ask.
Monday, November 10, 2008
Monday: Leaving Japan
I’m on a plane flying from
As we rush through Nothingness I believe I can feel the weight of responsibility descending on me. The responsibilities I have aren’t horrific or debilitating. They’re pretty average. Many of them are by choice because they each enable the life I want in a different way. And some of them are so deeply a part of me I wasn’t even aware of them until this trip. Right now, however, they are all heavy in the shadow of Nothingness. Obligation to family and friends. Obligation to my patients and coworkers. The responsibilities of bill paying and apartment cleaning. Shopping, cooking and remembering to tip wait staff. This morning we all spread our bodies out on John and Dave’s bed and watched
But more than just anonymous, in
To paraphrase Herman Hesse, we looked at the world simply, like children; and therefore we were blessed.
And for a while this morning after John’s words I meditated on being Nobody or being Somebody. Although I clearly made the decision to go back home, what I am taking away from the experience is this: we all need some down time. We all need to step away from Twitter and face book. We all need some time to be anonymous. We need to dwell on our own mysteries sometimes.
And moreover, we all need time to be children. The Bible records Jesus as saying that only those who were children in spirit could enter the
Thursday, November 6, 2008
The missing entry: Workshop Day! Is that a musical?
Dave had done workshops last year and so he was prepping us on what to expect. He said for him his biggest challenge was speaking through Ken, and not giving Ken too much to translate at a time, or forgetting to pause to let Ken translate anything. I figured my biggest challenge individually would be to know when to hang back and when to step in. John was worried about not repeating too much of Dave's content in the second workshop, but covering the same themes.
We met Ken and Naomi for lunch at a place near the studio. It was traditional Japanese and we sat on cushions on tatami mats. Ken ordered for us at our request, and I got a bowl of miso soup, some daikon with chicken, bean sprouts, a big bowl of white rice and the head half of a mackerel. It was as I began peeling the skin of the mackerel with my chopsticks and enthusiastically dipping it in the teriyaki sauce and chewing on it that I thought of my dear cousin Laura and how she would have probably died of starvation here trying to find some mozzarella sticks. Just kidding!*
Something very interesting in Japan is that they do not drink a lot of water. We have all ordered a glass of water in addition to our meal at almost every restaurant. Our hosts are baffled. Kay-a orders it for me now and smiles every time. We told Ken that water comes with every meal automatically in America and he was amazed. We all ordered water and finished our glasses, and Ken and Naomi had a few sips each.
The first workshop was very interesting. It was very small, and consisted only of members of Impro Japan's troupes. Steph , Casey and I took the workshop so we could be used to give examples. We did a ton of character work and then Dave taught them how to do a sweep edit, which is not used here in long form. They picked up on it quickly, and we also taught tag outs. That one was harder for them. It was also harder for us too because except for when Kay-a was able to translate for us we really didn't know what scenes we were jumping into. We also did monologues and practiced using monologues as inspiration for scene work.
It's seems trite to say but the language of comedy is universal. Even without always completely understanding each other, we had so much fun together. There was a definite playfulness to every collaboration, and results were almost always funny because they were so true.
The second workshop was a bit different. John led it, and actually a couple of the warm ups he used I am planning to use to teach my improv class this winter, I had never seen them before. This workshop was open to anyone, mainly people taking classes at Impro Japan participated. The group was much larger, and so the Americans participated in warm ups, but then hung back for the scene work and long form aspects.
I think both John and Dave did a great job using the time alloted, structuring the workshops in a comprehensive and cumulative way, and using Ken as a translator. They also explained why the exercises were relevant to improv. John also did a good job of ignoring the tiny edits I made to his workshop sheet to try and be helpful like "Now we will work in pairs I am a big goofy man."
The questions asked after the workshops showed the students were really processing and thinking about improvisation passionately. One of the Impro Japan company members commented that he likes the sweep edit more than he likes what they do (they clap and yell "edit-o," because it (and I am paraphrasing) gives the scene more energy instead of stopping the action. We were all like... "yes!"
Each workshop was three hours, and we had a break in between so it was 10 o'clock when we got out.
We went to their Bukowski's for dinner. Aya kept chanting "beer!" Naomi explained as we entered Panda, "this is where we live," and they all laughed. Panda is a Chinese restaurant that is well known for its spicy food.
The meal that ensued was amazing. Every night I am here I am sure I can not laugh harder than I did the night before and then I laugh even more. I sat with Jun and Kazu and there was not a single minute of down time. Jun had an English phrase book, so between my Japanese phrase book, his English one and his little electronic internet/translating device we were off and running. I also had my trip notebook with me, as I have every night so people could write things down for me. It was Bell's birthday so we all signed the card for him, and I signed mine in kanji, copying it painstakingly first from my book, "happy birthday," and then from my name tag, "miche."
Jun was very excited and so he began teaching me my first kanji lesson at the table. Dai laughed and said I write better than Kazu which made Kazu pretend to pout.
The food was so hot that eating it I broke a sweat. Steph was able to eat it without ANY PROBLEM. We want to call her "hot lips" now but think that might be misunderstood.
I drank a ton of tea. And ate a lot of rice. And burned my sinuses off.
I also ate my first duck egg. It was very dark in color and tasted... like nothing I have ever had before.
"Foreigner," got into a drinking competition with Aya. She was amazing. He was near tears, just staring at her across the table. We can't use this person's real name because he is so shamed. She had braces and elastics and looked very young but she was so tough. Her last words to Foreigner were "I want to drink with you again."
We learned how to yell "So- So!" if a small accident occurs at the table. This is because we kept spilling things. Kazu explained to me that it's used when "manners" are breeched. Or if a pet has an accident on a rug.
On the way home the Americans got very silly once we parted with our friends. It was one of those nights that felt infinite. We walked arm in arm almost the entire time home. We sang, and we danced and we laughed at EVERYTHING.
A block from the hotel John made us stop and form a circle. He gave us another speech about how he stayed with painters in England for two weeks. He learned something there. He said that if you are experiencing a moment that in the back of your mind you think you will remember forever you should take a moment and just recognize the moment and live it. So we stood in a circle, arm over arm in the middle of Tokyo and took three deep breaths and laughed and looked around the circle and laughed more.
People passing by must have thought we were crazy or drunk but they would only be a little bit right about either, because mainly we're just taking in each other and every minute we have in Tokyo so we can remember this for the rest of our lives.
*"Just kidding!" is a big joke here for us now. Our first dinner we learned how to say "jo-dan -des!" And we taught our friends "just kidding!" So we could talk without offense. It gets yelled often in chorus by the entire table after a joke now!
By the way. In case you were wondering what eyebrows are. As Dave was. They are gifts from the angels to keep the devil out of your eyes.
Thursday
Today was our official impro workshop day.
The girls woke up early and went shopping at the Sunshine City Mall which is underneath our hotel. We have lists of things we want to buy before we leave, it's so overwhelming how much there is. I want to buy gifts for people and I want them to be nice but to also be Japanese. Not just.. things I bought here you can buy anywhere else. I also think it would be nice to go home with a short skirt and high boots the way the Asian girls wear here. I went to a shop today where everything is $29.00. I can afford to dress well here!
Ok, never mind. I need to skip more writing because John, Steph, Casey and I are about to go watch Dreams. John is going to give me another Romi speech if I don't. Romi believed that if you have the opportunity to make a sincere connection with another person you should give up food and sleep, and anything else that would stand in the way.
Like.. blogging. I'll fill it all in tomorrow.
Wednesday: Dinner after the Shows
After the shows Wednesday night we went to dinner at the same pace we had gone to the night before. This time we did not sit on the floor, instead we were taken to a small room with a long table and many chairs. Many many chairs. And as friends arrived so did more chairs. Finally we were all piled into this tiny room, so many people that surely someone would arrive to tell us we were breaking every fire code in the city of Tokyo, but no one came except to take our order for sake, beer and fish.
Tsoyoshi was wearing a jacket that said “Don’t mess with me,” on it. We all thought that was pretty funny, but then he said he didn’t know what the words said or meant. So we taught him to pronounce the phrase, and then we all attempted to convey the meaning through mime and other similar phrases. He eventually picked up on it and we could tell he was pretty pumped that his jacket conveyed such an appropriate message.
We ate again like kings and queens. Now an old pro at hokke, I tore skin off of it with gumption, and ate things off the table without hesitation. A dish was brought to the table and placed on a heating unit. It bubbled and boiled right tin front of us, and when it was finally uncovered it smelled absolutely delicious. “What’s in that?” I asked. Ken and Naomi paused. Finally Ken gestured at his skin a bit and said a word that sounded like “coagulate.” Someone else explained that it was “skin jelly,” of a pig. I asked for the Japanese word, looked it up in my phrase book and came up with “collagen.” So … basically the skin jelly of a pig. I dug in, and congratulated myself on another adventure when yet another dish was brought.
This dish was smaller and contained flat breaded pieces of meat. Like chicken cutlets. But when we asked what it was Ken said, “whale.” A hush fell over the Americans. “Yes, yes,” Ken said, “we here in
I exchanged looks with my companions. There seemed to be something inherently wrong with digesting an endangered species. I had an adopted whale when I was a child. Its name was Spoon and the National Whale Preservation Society would send me updates on where she was most recently sighted, and sometimes, pictures. Spoon?
Having satisfactorily stopped a full fledged panic attack, I returned to the table.
Well, friends, that ended that because I laughed. And when I laughed noodles flew from my mouth and landed right in the communal miso bowl for dipping. The entire table screamed with laughter. I was mortified. It was the kind of moment I had hoped would never happen. Dave put his arm around me and I tried to sick under the table, and glare at John simultaneously. The next day when the incident was brought up at lunch Ken nonwittingly invented the gesture that will forever commemorate the incident. It also became our own sign language for a cultural faux pas. In order to complete the gesture one takes ones hand up to the chin and then opens the mouth suddenly while splayed out the fingers of the hand, like soba noodles flying everywhere.
Ken told me however, that I should not be ashamed because it made everyone laugh a lot and they were happy. And later on the trip one of the girls told me the same thing. So I felt better eventually. I guess I’m lucky we were associating with improvisers in
Wednesday, November 5, 2008
Wednesday: Joint Rehearsal and a Show
After watching the election yesterday we left to meet the NEXT Impro Japan troupe for our joint rehearsal session. After how successful our first night of improv in Japan was, we were all really excited to work directly with the other troupes. We were also a bit nervous because of the obvious language barriers. Whereas the first night of shows was long form, tonight it would be short form. On the train from Ikkebukura we talked about some short form games that we thought would translate well. Some choices, like Challenge in one Minute were out for obvious reasons. Anything that relied too heavily on words would just not work. Guessing games and games involving gibberish might be best because the game of the scene involves someone not understanding something.
We arrived at the studio, removed our shoes, and began mingling with NEXT. Some of the members were also in the long form group from last night. They had planned out a show format which allowed for three joint short form games plus a structure to end the show which they would teach us.
One of the games NEXT wanted to play together was Party Quirks. It was harder than we anticipated to find a good way t o play the game. We played it many ways. Including two hosts, one from each country. We decided the best way would be to have a Japanese host and American guests. Iri speaks mainly Japanese but he knows some English, so it worked well. Above all though, the game worked because he was good at guessing.
The process of playing this usually simple improv guessing game over and over with different combinations of language and then deconstructing it afterwards in both languages was incredible. Why something worked or didn't was talked about by both groups together, some translating was done and we'd try it again another time. If all foreign diplomacy was like this, there would be no war.
When we arrived later that evening at the theater, it was almost dark. We had about an hour to work on things with NEXT. They taught us a new warm up game called Tic Tock Bon which we'll be bringing to IB for sure.
They taught us a structure called "N.G SHU" which means "Not Good Collections," or... "Bloopers." At the end of the show you re live moments from the show but mess them up or make up other bloopers that might be at the end of a movie.
The show went as follows:
NEXT opened with this really cool choreographed piece involving lights and music and their hands behind flats. Their shows are all very highly produced, the finished product is polished, and tech is very important. To give you an idea of how important tech is, there is sound and lighting equipment in the studio, and when we rehearsed two improvisers ran the lights and sound. They are so good at what they do that during Party Quirks a real doorbell plays on cue.
But I digress. Then NEXT did a set with four or five short form games. One of them was a singing structure. If I haven't mentioned yet how amazing their musician, Momo, is allow me to now. We have asked her to come play with us in the U.S some time.
Then it was our turn, we did 15 minutes of long form and then there was a brief intermission. Our set was not as smooth as it was the last night. Probably because we didn't warm up separately. Something interesting that happened, which we've all talked about several times, is that our scenes became very non verbal. We used very little English, and stuck with sounds and big emotions. I think it put us in our heads, whereas the last night we had used big emotions and physicalities and still used English and were fine.
After intermission NEXT did an amazing musical set. It featured Iri and Naomi with the rest of the cast as back up singers. Although I did not understand the words, it was some of the most amazing musical improv I have seen in a very long time.
Then we came back up to play NG Shu. This was really fun to do. We are going to introduce it in a show at IB some time. I got really into it. So into it that at one point Iri was talking to the audience and I just gave a warrior yell and cartwheeled across stage. I was caught by Dai who whispered, "great." Dave was cracking up. Then he grabbed me, shaking because he was laughing so hard and whispered that the show was over and Iri was thanking the audience for coming. I looked around at everyone else back stage and they were all laughing hysterically.
Whoops! Just kidding!
Tuesday, November 4, 2008
Wednesday morning: President elect Obama
I know that I haven't used this blog much for my thoughts and feelings... only events. But I am so overcome with emotion right now.
I felt very patriotic after 9/11. I remember sitting on the street in front of Tim's house with Johnny and waving flags and holding candles. I remember walking with my candle down Washington Street with my family. But I remember being scared. I remember it was a pride mixed with uncertainty, and fear. It was a pride mixed with skepticism for Bush's ability to really lead us as a nation away from the terror and mourning. It was a confusing time to be an American teenager. I was taking a class at the time called Facing History and Ourselves, which included a huge national identity component to begin with. The first assignment was to create an art project about our identities, making sure to take into consideration our feelings about nationality. The class took a two or three week break from scheduled lessons right after Sept. 11 to focus on Middle Eastern history, current foreign relations and day to day reactions to the attacks.
Today, as I sit and look over the city of Tokyo outside my window, tears streaming down my face, I can honestly say I have never felt the way I do right now. I am so proud to be American. I am proud that as a country we made the choice for change. We made a choice to learn from our mistakes and to move forward. I have so much hope for the future. Both the immediate future in terms of our economy, the war and healthcare, but also the future of our great nation over a longer time period. This campaign started from the ground. It means that the people still have a true democratic voice. It's a huge step, obviously for African Americans, but really for all of us.
I am so glad to be in Japan, I will never forget this. It's such a strange feeling to be this happy, and to realize that around us, everyone here is just going about their day. All around the hotel people are just working and talking and eating as if it's any other Wednesday. Part of me wishes we were in America celebrating with everyone. I want to hug everyone. I want to embrace all of America. I want to call Nick who is in Chicago, where Obama will be speaking in just a few moments. We are all connected. I even feel connected to my conservative friends right now. McCain's speech made me cry. I think that America can become the most united since her conception with Obama as our leader.
Before I go so we can eat and watch the speech -I want to tell you this: I have a patient who came to mind immediately when CNN called the election. Mr. C. He was from Jamaica, and talked of the slavery in his country where he grew up. Mr. C was one of my favorites. He called me simply, "nurse," and was very friendly and always so cheerful. He was from a family of slaves, but came to America when he was young and got an education; he eventually became a teacher. He taught in South Boston during the race riots of the 1960s and also got his Masters degree. Mr. C was a very well educated gentleman. One day, he came to me crying. It was the morning after the Democratic National Convention. He said, "Nurse, I am crying for I am so happy now. To think in my life time a man like Obama may be president. It makes my heart joyful." When Mr. C was discharged he was going to go back to Jamaica for the winter, because the cold is too hard on him in Boston. But I know that wherever he is right now, he is experiencing more joy than I can even imagine.
It is a beautiful day in Tokyo, it is a beautiful day for America. I have never felt this way before, but I can tell that this hope and this faith is the beginning of something amazing and new. America just entered a whole new era, and I am so thankful that it's occurring in my lifetime.
God Blesses America.
Wednesday Morning: Last Night's Dinner continued
Ok. So... I knew they were sardines by the smell. They smelled the way the penguin exhibit smells at the New England aquarium. Because that's what penguins eat. They were whole, heads, tails, fins and all. I ate them and smiled bravely.
They came with meatballs, and next came a small pizza with tiny shrimp, a salad with shredded vegetables, and a dish with ramen and fish and vegetables. Then a plate of much bigger fish. They also still had heads and tails and skin. The chief grabbed a hold of the fish and tore a piece of skin off it and ate it. Then Ken showed me how he took a whole bone out and ate the skin off it.
Li told us it was called "hoe-kay," but I can't find it online. Meanwhile, I do not eat fish at home. I like shellfish, like crab and lobster. Whenever my Mom made fish for my Dad I would get a grilled cheese.
And here I was... eating skin off bones of a fish. And then picking out the meat from the fish in the center of the table with my chopsticks, dipping them in lemon, and mixing with Japanese radish and eating it. Not loving it, but not hating it either.
There was so much laughter in the conversations. Every time something was funny or surprising everyone would yell "Oooooh!" And every time someone did something well, like if one of our friends pronounced and English word, or when John finally ate one of the little fish, everyone would cheer "Aaaaay!" (Like the Fonz.)
We flirted with Di and Tstu. Tstu took my phrase book and asked me if he could kiss me. We laughed and I said yes, and that stopped him in his tracks. So he asked if I'd go back to his place and I took the phrase book back and said no, I was here with my girlfriend and grabbed Steph, which cracked the entire room up. We spent a good 10 minutes going back and forth with the sex and romance pages.
We talked about our favorite movies, books, directors, actors, American and Japanese. Ringu came up, and Steph did an impression which scared all of our hosts. Oh, and Scott, I got a recommendation from Kazu of another movie we need to see. It's Ju-on. He wrote it down for me. We talked about comic books, manga and also the American ones and I missed Teffer so badly. Jung reminds his friends of Hiro from "Heroes," and so he did a Hiro impression. Tstu wants to be Jack Bauer, and he kept doing "24," impressions.
While we were discussing horror movies, Steph began to tell everyone about Gorefest. They were intrigued. I put on my creepy dead girl face and started to say, "ha ha? ha ha?" Which means "Mother? Mother?" And they freaked out! Then I got everyone to do their best zombie impressions and I got them all on video.
Die and Bocho told us about their experience at the Chicago Improv Festival last year. And then Di told us about his international travels as a magician! His nickname is "den-chu," which is some kind of pole here, because he is so skinny. On the way home someone pointed one out to us in the street and Die laughed.
Their cell phones are much cheaper than ours and way better. You can use your phone to swipe for the subway here, or pay for dinner in restaurants or buy things at the store. They all have televisions on them, and we started to watch some news stories on Obama at the table. All our friends are very excited about the American election, and were relieved that we are all Obama supporters.
Honestly, the whole night was just so much fun. I haven't laughed that hard in a long time. It was amazing how well we could all communicate with our Japanese and their English.
Being an American in Japan RIGHT NOW
It is so weird to think that we have to go to bed and sleep before we hear the election results. Right now we're all so worried and just can't wait. It's like waiting for Christmas... none of us want to sleep but we know we have to. While we're sleeping you will all get out of work, and go about your afternoon. Tonight, many of you will go to IB for the BNN election show and party. We are setting our alarms to wake up when you will all be drinking your first or second beer. We're going to try to find some ex-pats to watch with, because John knows some people here. But it's going to be immediately when we wake up that the results will really being coming in. I imagine that we'll probably end up piled up in the room I am sharing with Casey and Steph, as we are right now. Wearing these robes, drinking tea and taking turns going to Family Mart to buy fruit and eggs.
For the rest of our lives we will remember that during this election, no matter what happens, we were together in Tokyo. Even if we don't know each other, this is something we'll tell our children. This is a really unique experience, and I feel really blessed to be having it.
Tuesday: the After Party
Ken, Tscsu, Di, Naomi, Bell, Kazu, Jung, and Kio joined us soon. We had an amazing night. I will write more tomorrow AM, but I encourage you to go to my Picasa page and look at photos.
But lastly, for Liz I will at least record this early- on exchange:
Li: Your name?
Steph: Steph
Bucho: Steph? Stephanie?
Li: Ah! Stephanie!
Bucho: Stephanie Stephanie!
Li: An.. American drama? On TV. Foool Hawse?
They could not handle it when Steph then pointed to me and said, "Her name is Michelle!" We're talking screaming joy and laughter. Steph then pointed to Dave and said "Uncle Jesse," Casey introduced herself as D.J and Li barely stopped laughing to point at Bucho and gasp : "You can be Comet!"
And that, my friends, is when the individual plates full of sardines with heads and tails still attached arrived in front of each of us.
Tuesday: SHOWTIME
We repaid this by being about 30 minutes late due to absolute breakdown in organization. The guys were stressed, we were stressed, things looked bad.
Anyway, we arrived at 6:30PM at Shinjuku Station to two stressed friends. The station, Ken told us, is the busiest train station in the world. Every day 2 MILLION people go through its gates. Dave would like me to add: "That's like taking all of Boston, sending through the station, and then making them do it again and it's still not even close!"
I KNOW. We had no time to enjoy the sights because we needed to book it to the teatro since we were so late. The name of the teatro that Impro Japan is based out of us called "PUK PUPA TEATRO," and has something to do with puppets. The space is so hip, it was amazing.
We warmed up, and reconnected after our stressful delay. Then we met the cast of Impro Japan, who were all super friendly. We had a chance to do a small rehearsal with Ken doing lights and a really talented improv pianist accompanying us.
Impro Japan should really be called "sokyo tokyo," because that means "improv tokyo" and it rhymes, which we think is awesome. They don't get why we like it, but they agreed to all themselves that for the night. We have decided to call ourselves "Cuddlefish," but introduced ourselves to the audience as Improv Boston for fairly obvious reasons.
Sokyo Tokyo performed a long form set. It was really interesting to watch. They had highly stylized opening and closing, pre rehearsed ... maneuvers. I liked the opening because they played loud music and the lights flashed on every few seconds and each time the lights flashed there was one more player and they were in a different pose until they were all there.
Their improv was very compartmentalized. They edited very cleanly, no scenes overlapped, and usually they said "edit-o" when they did. I recognized an environmental deconstruction edit at one point which was cool, and also maybe an Our Town construct. The audience was so quiet, they enjoyed it a lot, but lauging out loud was reserved only for the most direly funny moments.
Next, our turn: Our input was "hot dog." So here was my first improv scene for an audience in a foreign country: I played a fat man opposite Steph's fat woman eating too many hot dogs. Then she got sick so I handed her a pill. She ate the pill and became pregnant. I became her fetus, John became a clock. I was birthed as a hot dog. Steph lunged for me hungrily, I shook my head and cried "Mama?" while the audience howled, and then she ate me. "Edit-o!"
We had a fun, simple set that was well received, and even sang two songs, which we didn't plan for. We ended on a harmony in a song about love in spite of forgetting someone's birthday.
International Improv: Absolute success.
Tuesday: Shopping Problems
We met up with the guys and tried to plan a day trip to bike ride along the Imperial Palace, but our Impro Tokyo contact, Ken, called us and set us up with a 10:30am rehearsal time at the studio they have in Akihabara. So we quickly set out and met Ken at Ikebukuro Station where he guided us along a pretty complicated train transfer on the way to our rehearsal space.
On the way he confided slowly in us that he hasn't spoken English in a year (he is our translator for the rest of the week), and he was very nervous, but within a couple hours he was fine.
We rehearsed as a group for the very first time today, and had a great time. To be honest, I was nervous. I have never performed with anyone in the group but Steph. And at times tensions have gotten high in the group, which is understandable for the amount of time we're all together. But it was great, and we all felt very confident about doing a show tonight.
After we rehearsed we walked around the neighborhood. Akihabara, shortened to Akiba sometimes here, is home of the "electronics" district as well as the anime district. We wandered around marveling at the huge brand name stores like Sega and Sharp. We were really hungry so the first thing we did was find a shopping center with two stories devoted to food. We chose a restaurant, this one a sushi place, and shared some raw fish and some stories.
Then we had about an hour to spend in the area. We got tired of computers and cell phones, and decided to go to the anime section. Understandably, there is a large community of Otaku there. We entered a store that specialized in Otaku costuming... many little sexy anime costumes. That was our first mistake. Our second mistake was that when I asked the saleswoman if there was a dressing room and she brought me to it she did not tell me
A) We actually could not try on the costumes (what?)
B) Only one person in room at time
C) Only one clothing item (but not the costumes? at a time.
Steph and Casey were trying on Chinese dresses (not sketchy at all) and I was trying on a Sailor Moon - esque jumper with the express purpose of getting a funny (illegal) photo to show Fleming. Dave took my photo and a woman came over and stopped him, and before we knew it, there was a man inside the tiny dressing room WITH me and Steph. She was clutching a dress to herself and I was wearing only a bra and boy shorts, and he was IN THERE WITH US, clucking in frustration, picking up pieces of clothing and saying "only one!" "You ask, I unwrap, you try only one!"
We were so embarrassed. It's been our first real faux pas in the city. Dave and John apologized profusely on our behalf, and John explained that he had asked Steph to try on the dresses to model them since she is his wife's size. This was true. Nothing was said of my Sailor Moon outfit. That was for the best. John and Steph each bought a dress, which smoothed everything over. We went down the stairs instead of the elevator for a quick escape and realized the rest of the building was the most elaborate porn shop any of us had ever seen in our lives.
Awesome.
Monday: Nightlife
We left the hotel and found a kaitenzushi where the sushi comes on a conveyor belt. We are way more confident with our Japanese and ordered four bottles of sake, and were able to ask important questions like: What is this? Even though we didn't always understand the answer. We all tried things we had never tried before. I ate fish eggs that popped in my mouth, and some octopus. I also ate a bunch of these translucent white - ish worm type things until I saw they had eyes. I know, it's dumb, but suddenly I just couldn't. Steph finished them for me. And... I'm searching the internet for what they were. Maybe Shira-uo? but can't find any pictures. So if anyone out there knows... please tell me. Later. Dinner was so cheap. Each plate cost about the equivalent of $1.40. Split five ways we paid $8.00 each and we were all full and pleasantly warmed by the sake. Well, except Steph had no sake and I had too much sake, but that evened itself out.
Then we took the JR line to Shibuya.
On the way there a man who was quite entertained by our banter handed Steph a bag with a band new bottle of Chinese Tequila in it. He indicated that he wanted her to have it. Everyone was amazed, and we were about to get off the train, so Steph, desperate for a gift to give back, whisked off her bracelet and handed it to him. He laughed a lot, and as we left the train he waved the jangly bracelet/hair tie at us. WHAT?
It was like being in Times Square, there were so many screens and lights, and even some of the buildings fronts flashed on and off with crazy lights. Crossing the street was an adventure. No one here jay walks. Everyone waits. And then a FLOOD of people enter the streets. It's amazing. We went to the largest Starbucks I have ever seen so we could get some caffeine and maybe at least I would stop being so dizzy. Sake is really really great. So is chai. I have found a winning combination. We sat in a window on the second or third story of the Starbucks, overlooking the intersection where the Hachiko subway exit is. As we relaxed we discussed how so many people ride bikes, and no one wears a helmet, and no one seems to ever be in any danger. The streets are so clean, there is no litter anywhere. We talked about cultural implications of things like.. handing someone a full bottle of alcohol on a train. Meanwhile we were all regretting that the NPR audio device as well as both mine and John's cameras had stayed back at the hotel to charge up for tomorrow.
After we felt more awake we walked across the intersection to LOHB.
It was a very classy and chic establishment overlooking the intersection from the other side. We tired to order drinks... but no one quite got what they ordered. I ordered a chamomile, for example... figured it was a nice way to relax. Instead I got a Kahlua and Milk and ended up back where the sake had left me. We made fast friends with the people at the next table, Japanese university students studying english who were there to celebrate a friend's birthday. We sang Happy Birthday in English, and toasted "Kampai!" with everyone as we drank our ridiculous drinks. John ordered sake, but they had none so the waitress chose his drink and gave him strawberry champagne with liquor and a purple flower in it. Casey has photos, so don't worry, you'll see that flower behind John's ear yet.
The staff and other patrons at LOHB did not appreciate the jokes we were all telling in Japanese and English. I bet they didn't like the boob towel that the birthday girl received that we then all had to take photos with. And they especially didn't like when we were all standing up and coordinating whether or not they'd be able to come to the Impro (yes, no "v" for comedians here) Festival. They were so relieved when I asked for the bill that it was comical.
No one tips here. We left without asking for change (it was only 20 yen, which is nothing), and our waitress chased us out the door to hand it to us.
Next we walked around Shibuya taking in all the sights. We went to GasPanic.
Which Dave said was a hopping place to be last year, but it was all empty. In Shibuya we saw a car club, just like in America. It was a line of souped up older cars, Cadillacs mostly, with young Asian men driving and blasting gansta rap music. We danced a bit on the corner.
We left Shibuya to go back to Sunshine City, and we were all kind of tired but I for one was reluctant to turn in yet, so the plan was to find one more thing to do before we went back to the hotel.
In order to get our energy back up John began chasing Steph around at the station, so we all started running around the columns and then some Japanese people our age joined in and when we stopped we all hugged and laughed and they were chanting "Japan is number one" "Japan ichiban." And we all took photos of each other and hugged more and said how much fun it was.
We laughed the entire way out of the station and decided to make a rule for the rest of the trip that if anyone begins to run we all must also run.
When we left the station we turned the wrong way but I needed a toilet, so I went to an American place called Jonathan's. When I came out I saw my friends talking to a man.
As it turns out, this man was from Nepal, and claimed to be in direct contact with God. John identified him right away as a cold reader. I walked up just as he was trying to tell John's fortune. He claimed John was cheating on his wife. Which was not true, but then guessed that John's wife was his college sweetheart. His english was not very good, and he contradicted himself a lot, but it was absolutely mesmerizing and we could not look away. He couldn't read Steph. He told Dave he has " a good business but many problems in everything else." He told Dave his mother is very angry, and will talk to him in his dreams tonight. Ok, mind you... this was not all in one sentence. He was like... "your mother. Your mother," and we had to keep prodding him, and guessing (which is of course what a cold reader does). He handed Dave some object and instructed him to not show anyone until after he wakes up, having had this dream about his mother. He told me that I will not ever get married or have children, but that I will have a happy future. He kept saying how lucky I am, and touching my hands and bowing, he touched my feet. He said my next boyfriend will be rich. He says I have problems, many problems, in every area of my life, but not to worry my job will be ok.
Meanwhile, really?? I get a fortune at the temple that says my life is going to be awful and then some street performer tells me I'll never have a family? Awesome.
He was very physical, he smacked my cheek once when I made a joke about not being John's wife, and he punched John for something else.
Then he made Steph go buy some water. Which she couldn't find. So she had to go into Jonathan's and bring a glass of water outside. "I told them I'd bring it back." He made Casey drink the water and told her that her grandfather is dead. And while that is not true to our knowledge Casey said that if she contacts home and finds out something happened she'll flip. He also said Dave's dad was dead, but that's not even close to true.
He made everyone drink the water but me and John. He did however grab my hands again and look sad and shake his head at my dismal future.
We escaped after John essentially turned the tables on him and told the man his daytime occupation and place of work. John said later he had seen into the guy's wallet when he paid Steph for the water (money which he never wanted back).
We then walked a while in the wrong direction and found ourselves in the seedy underbelly of Sunshine City. I still felt completely safe. I haven't felt uncomfortable once here. In fact, I love it here. And it is way too late to still be up but now I feel better having written down so much. Tomorrow I'll have my camera again, and hopefully we are going to the Imperial Temple before our rehearsal.
Monday: The Parade
The parade was two hours long. It was historical, and the Singapore ladies explained as much as they could, as did my new Japanese grandfather. Many of the people were dressed in traditional costume, but it seemed to go in chronological order... we saw samurai and ninja ("ninja! ninja!" grandpa insisted, miming throwing stars), from many different eras. There was a lot of representation of the Edo era, and famous feudal lords were actually identified by name with large banners that proceeded them.
Then John's video camera died, and so did his audio recorder on loan from NPR.
There were also Kabuki actors in mask, puppets, and clowns. There was a man who climbed up a ladder and did tricks. There were samurai who yelled, and samurai who acted out sword fights for us. Japanese children bowing and smiling. Men carrying old instruments. Women dressed as geishas or in other traditional gowns. The ninjas did a demonstration right in front of us. There were about 8 of them and they all fought to the death!!
We heard people yell "America! America" and looked up and saw a group of U.S soldiers dressed in 1800s gear in the parade. The parade had happened to stop just then, so they were all waving and smiling at us, the white people in the crowd. One of them asked where we were from, so we started talking to them. They were there representing Commodore Perry's involvement in the Convention of Kanagawa. Since the parade stopped we got up and took our picture with them. Japanese grandpa was really excited. He offered to take the photo for us. Then he wanted one of just me and the soldier I had been talking to. Then I got my picture with Japanese Grandpa and he gave me his business card so I can translate it later and send him the photos.
People around us laughed and smiled and cheered.
At this point Casey's camera was full. So there we were: sitting on a street in Tokyo, in the FRONT row of the crowd that had assembled watching ninjas fight to the death with our new family, and no way to show you what we saw. but you have to believe us.
So the parade was amazing and breathtaking, and afterwards we said goodbye to each of our new friends, and then these photographers came up and wanted our picture so we let them. It's weird being American here, but everyone seems really happy to see us, so that's good.
I can't believe I still have so much to write about. I need a Part Three.
Monday: Sensoji Temple and Culture Day
We entered through the Hozo-mon Gate which is guarded on either side by two Nio (deva Kings), carved from wood. The main road from the gate to the temple is called Nakamise and is lined on either side with carts and small shops selling trinkets, welcome cats, touristy things, and food. Really awesome cheap food. And you can buy alcohol right there. I ate a delicious fried thing. Twice. Also along the main road was the residential area of the temple called Denpo-in. We meandered in and out of the main road onto side streets and explored many little shrines, some amazing statues and beautiful gardens.
Everywhere we went people wanted to talk to us and help us, even if they spoke very little English.
When we arrived finally at the Temple, we entered slowly to the sound of chanting and drums. Inside, monks were praying, and everywhere people were praying. There were many places to buy prayer beads. We all put yen into a donation box and pulled sticks from a can which we matched up to a drawer and pulled fortunes out of. I got a "Bad Fortune," which I took a photo of so you can read how awful my life is about to become. The general gist of the fortune was that: "Your request will not be granted. The person you wait for will not arrive. The lost article will not be found. You should stop starting a trip."
I was distraught until a group of friendly ladies in white befriended us and showed me how to do away with my bad luck by folding up the paper and tying it, with everyone else's to a rack. Then they bowed with me and cheered. I was going to ask more, but a gong sounded and they all began to chant. When they were done, I asked if they were nuns, which they were. They showed us their prayer books, and tried to explain some of the prayers. We all became great friends, and they hugged us goodbye and wished us all better fortune.
I don't have the words to describe the things we saw but I must find them because when I got the bad fortune my camera died so I have no further photos. And the day only got more exciting.
There was a huge pit of sage burning, people bought sage and burnt it and then waved smoke on themselves and each other. Nearby was a fountain, and people dipped into it with long silver ladles, scooped water onto their hands, put it in their mouths and spit.
We began to walk Nakamise back to find some food when a procession began. First came Japanese children dressed like samurai. Next, women wearing crane heads on their heads, with long white hair, and blue costumes. They had wings tied to their backs and arms, and they moved and danced like cranes. Everyone was so quiet. Everyone moved so slowly, so when they finally unfolded their wings there was a gasp from everyone, even though it was such a simple gesture. The whole day was like that. Everything was simple and beautiful. We all had to push together to let the wagon that followed them through, which was full of geishas playing instruments. We followed the procession (which John got a video of), back to the Temple. We could not see what happened next, but monks entered and a ritual was performed with chanting, and everyone crowded around and the crane dancers stayed right up front. When it was done, the crowd began to disperse.
Again we started to walk back for some food, and then were stopped in our tracks by another procession. This one involving a giant golden dragon puppet controlled by about 6 men. They made the dragon dance and even bend to kiss the heads of children in the crowd.
We did some shopping. Steph found a cat and picked it up and we had to convince her to leave it, but there are great photos of her and the cat on Casey's camera. Then a street vendor sold Steph two HUGE pears after letting her sample some from the cart.
THEN we tried to get lunch yet again but we were suddenly surrounded on all sides by people. The real parade was about to begin. Within moments we found ourselves sitting on a red plastic sheet, shoes off, with hundreds of others in the street. Two our left, a Japanese couple who clued me in to taking off my shoes. To our right, a woman who used to be a geisha who spoke excitedly during the entire parade about her experiences. Behind us, two women from Singapore who spoke Japanese and English and so translated for us, and an older gentleman from Mt. Fuji.
The parade deserves its own entry.
Monday, November 3, 2008
Arriving in Japan
November 3rd, Monday 7AM
Dave showed up at Mike Morrell’s house at about